The Great Visa Chase

It is Monday morning in Baku and its times for me to start chasing the visas that will let me continue the trip. I have spent a wonderful weekend being spoilt by a family here but now it is time to get on with it...

The Uzbek emabssy is first on the list. I try without success to hail the no 3 bus which the trusty lonley planet says will get me there. The driver either doesn't see me or chooses not to stop. I give up and decide to walk. Its a bit of a hike up to the top of the hills that overlook the main part of town. I learn quickly that its only the wealthier countries that can afford to rent offices for embassies in the centre of town. The poorer countries are out in the 'burbs. Australia doesnt even have an embassy so i'm not sure what that says.

I reach the top of the hill and the area where the embassy should be. The address says lane number 9 but none of the lanes are labeled. I wander the rather busy street hoping there may be a sign to help me out. I am regreting not taking a more decent map as the poxy map of greater Baku in the LP just doesn't cut it. After an hour or two my tired legs override my frugal instincts and i get in a taxi. He takes me there, at the very end of the lane i had walked past 4 times! He asks 4 mannet, well more that he should for the 400 hundred meter journy, and i curse under my breath for not setting the fare before i got in.
I am given a chicken drumstick by the very cheery ( and rather bored) security gaurd while i wait to here what i didnt want to here. I do infact need a letter or introduction. I smile benarly as he hands me a shiny brouche for an Uzbek travel agent who can 'assist me'. I wonder weather slipping a green back into my passport may have facilitated the process and wander off.

(Letters of Introduction are a soviet era hangover that is designed to ensure you spend money on goverment hotels. They are usually more expensive and take far longer to obtain than the visa themselves.)

Next its off to the Kazak embassy. Another rather lenghty but alas futile walk that leads me to a bank where the embassy used to be. 'Its moved' says the security gaurd ' somewhere near the europe hotel' i look at the clock that says 4 and concede defeat.

The Next day i am off bright and early. I have found the area where the embassy should be on the internet and even have the benfit of a street directory.
Alas there is still no sign of it.

I meet an electrical engineer who offers to take me there. Some how however we end up in a cafe drinking chai. I drink my tea and wait paitently, hoping the situation maybe resloved in my favour. Eventaully i am put in a taxi, told what the fair should be and have the directions given to the driver. He drops me off at the far end of the street, clearly not happy enough with the fair to drop me any closer. I get there to find he has dropped me at the Turkemenistan embassy. Here a stan there a stan everwhere a stan....... Someone says the Kazak one is near the Europe hotel ( the other side of town) i mutter and get in a taxi 'Europe hotel' i say

The embassy was closed for the day when i got there........

It's day three of the great embassy chase. I have a spring in my step. I know where i have to go and...... its not that far. I am even there 10 mins early. Eventaully a rather serious women beckons me in. I try to get her to crack a smile, not a bright idea emrys, she scowls at me. Stalin would have been proud i think to myself. The two week wait for the Uzbek LOI is beyond my level of paitence so i have decided to blow it away altogether. I fill in the kazak form, '2 month' visa i tick. Stalin's cousin behind the counter takes my passport and my US $40. I leave somewhat satisfied though a little nrevous that they still have my passort........