Saturday 19 September 2009

Visiting Stalin

One of the many statues of old Joe in the Gory musem.

I am in the town of Gory. It is a beutiful town set between the greater and lesser Caucus mountains. From the fortess that dominates the middle of the town you can see snow on the peaks of the nearby mountains. It is still dry here though. I have left the sub tropical black sea coast with its eucalypts and am in the dryer central plateau. It will get dryer as i head further east
Most recently Gory was close to the conflict zone where Georgian and Russian troops clashed. The bridge on the way into town has been destroyed but i find out later that was from a flood and not from the flighting. It is however not really why i am hear.

Gory is of course the birtherplace of Josef Stalin and i am keen to see how his hometown has remebered him.

Taking a look at the map of the town its clear to see that is not with distain the he is remembered. There is Stalin Sqaure and the main street in the town is called Stalin parade. Then there is the musem. A huge buidling and the end of a nice park. I pay my 15 Lari ( about 10 dollars) and climb the very dark staircase.

I meet my tour guide. She informs me that she is only one of two and so the tour will ne a little short. We breeze thorough his early life as a revolutionary. His aresst and escapes from the gulgas. We disscuss his setting up of a printing press for workers and his early work with the revolution. After that we move onto his part in the second world war. We see the gifts given to him by loyal ( or teffified) subjects. We even get a quick look at his train carriage. Stalin hated flying. Sadly there is now mention of the purges. No mention of an ice pick to the back of the head. No mention of the ruthless checka or his hated of the rich peasants. There was a very brief mention of his son being executed where he had the choice of saving him.
Had i not had a some idea of history i would have been considring a saint-hood for the dude!

I enjoy yet another Khachapuri ( cheese pie) beofre i jump on my bike and head of town slightly bemused but understanding somewhat a towns need to have a hero. Even if he had a few charachter flaws.......

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